SKU: 11722671401

RETRO-QUIK: SCION FR-S / GT86

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Ships within 48 hours · Estimated delivery Aug 22 - Aug 27

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Description

RETRO-QUIK: SCION FR-S / GT86Lucky You. Most of the FR S GT86s sold came with rather weak halogen projector headlights that don't show much in the way of forward lighting. Luckily for you, the Morimoto Retro Quik system is designed as a direct bolt on upgrade for a big performance boost inside the headlights on all Scion FR S Toyota GT86 models. Bi Xenon Projectors. Morimoto's most modern bi xenon, the Mini H1 7. 0, was an instant winner upon launch. Representing the first full

Lucky You.

Most of the FR-S/GT86s sold came with rather weak halogen projector headlights that don't show much in the way of forward lighting. Luckily for you, the Morimoto Retro-Quik system is designed as a direct bolt-on upgrade for a big performance boost inside the headlights on all Scion FR-S / Toyota GT86 models.

Bi-Xenon Projectors.

Morimoto's most modern bi-xenon, the Mini H1 7.0, was an instant winner upon launch. Representing the first full overhaul of the Mini H1 since way back when the 1.0 came out, it's now one of the most advanced headlight projectors in the world today. Revised reflector optics paired with their curved cutoff shield produces one of the widest low beam patterns we've ever seen, and a high beam that will easily go the distance. Kuria Optic clear lenses maximize intensity throughout, and keep the cutoff line sharp, colorful, and attractive. New side-action solenoids are more than 3x stronger than the old and fussy vertically-sprung units. Result: Maximum light on the ground, zero glare to oncoming traffic for your Scion FR-S / Toyota GT86 headlights.

Mounting Hardware.

100% Engineered in the US. Laser cut from automotive-grade G10 fiberglass. The Retro-Quik brackets at the heart of the kit are designed to adapt the Morimoto Mini 7.0 Bi-xenon projectors directly in place of the unsophisticated stock units. Using the original mounting holes paired with new hardware, they are the beauty behind the kit that makes it an easy install. 

HID Ballasts.

The Morimoto XB 2.0 HID Ballasts are just as good looking on the outside as they are well-engineered on the inside. They are available in both 35w and 50w versions, use proprietary software by the pros at Hylux paired with packaging perfection from the masters at Morimoto.

H1 HID Bulbs.

Homegrown by Morimoto to out-perform any alternatives on the market when installed in projector-based headlight--and it shows. We admit the latest generation XB HID bulbs are pretty impressive when compared to other bulbs, and even older Morimoto bulbs. At the heart of the XB bulbs is their perfectly-aligned 100% Philips quartz glass capsule that houses high quality halide salts from German-supplier Messer. 

Relay Harness.

As one of the most important parts in any HID lighting upgrade, don't skimp out when it comes to your wiring. It doesn't matter how good your ballasts are or how good your bulbs are, if your harness is a piece of crap, when it gives out your headlights are gonzo. The Morimoto HD Relay harness is easily worth the premium price compared to cheaper alternatives. With triple-sealed twin relays, 14ga. stranded copper wiring, over-molded fittings, and plug-n-play functionality, it will ensure everything functions properly and permanently from the original in-cabin controls. It's easily the best headlight wire harness out there.

High Beam Splitters.

Put simply, the optional Morimoto high beam splitters allow you to make this feature work easily without any cutting or splicing to the factory wiring by diverting power from the halogen bulb into the projector's high beam solenoid, making them both work at the same time.

Housing Sealant.

Protection is priceless! When you're putting together a set of high-end headlights, the last thing you want is moisture in 'em the first time it rains outside. RetroRubber is the most effective way to make sure the original seal is fully restored.

 

 This kit includes

Tech specs

  • PROJECTORS: 2x Morimoto Mini H1 7.0

  • RQ BRACKETS / HARDWARE: 2x Custom G10 Fiberglass / Stainless

  • OPTIONAL HID BALLASTS: 2x Morimoto XB35 AMP

  • OPTIONAL H1 HID BULBS: 2x Morimoto XB

  • WIRE HARNESS: 1x H11/H9/H8/880

  • HIGH BEAM SPLITTERS: 2x Morimoto Splitters

  • HOUSING SEALANT: 1x Morimoto RetroRubber (black)

If you wish to exclude additional install materials from your order, please contact us.

  • OPERATING RANGE: -40C to +125C

  • XB BALLAST INPUT: 9-32VDC

  • XB BALLAST OUTPUT: 85VAC 35W

  • XB BALLAST MAX V: 25kV (at start-up)

  • XB35 BALLAST LIFESPAN: 2500 Hours

  • 3000K BULBS: Golden Yellow (~2800 lm)

  • 4500K BULBS: Warm White (~3500 lm)

  • 5500K BULBS: Pure White (~3400 lm)

  • 6500K BULBS: Cool White (~3200 lm)

  • XB55 50W BALLASTS: Not Compatible

        Shipping Notes
        • Free Standard Shipping on $100+ Orders to the USA.
        • Except Preorder products are shipped in 48 hours.
        • Delivery to the USA:
        1. Standard Shipping : 3-10 business days
        • If time is of the essence, please consider selecting expedited delivery for faster service.
        Exchange/Return Notes
        • We offer a 30-day return/exchange service after receiving.
        • Final sale items are not eligible for returns or exchanges.
        • To process your return/exchange, please contact us at [email protected]
        • Please click here for more details>>> Return & Exchange Policy
        SKU: 11722671401

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        4.4 ★★★★★
        Based on 6 reviews
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        Product Reviews
        E
        Verified Purchase
        Elton Smith
        San Leandro, US
        ★★★★★ 5
        Forget Adventurer 5M , This is the true and easy to use beginner machine
        Set name: Ender 3 V3 SE
        This is my 3rd 3d printer. Once I spent about 45 minutes assembling it has been printing nonstop since the amazon driver dropped it off, these are the best for reliability and perfect for hobbyists. It is not the quickest machine out there, but it makes up for it with a quality print good price as well.
        WAS THIS REVIEW HELPFUL?YesReportShare
        Reviewed in the United States on May 25, 2026
        H
        Verified Purchase
        hearmeout
        Boise, US
        ★★★★★ 4
        One - Month Review
        Set name: Ender 3 V3 SE, Set name: Ender 3 V3 SE
        First - I wrote a out of the box review - I do not know if this review will replace the old review or compliment it. Just in case this review replaces the old review - I will repeat a few of the important points from the previous review. I must also say it helps a great deal if you are already familiar with Ender because about 80% or more of the machine is built the same way as the older models. If this is your first Ender - read the instructions and check to make sure you have all the parts. Placing the parts where you can easily tear open the bags and not having to search for a part cuts down the assembly time. While the assembled printer takes up a small footprint - give yourself room to work. This is my 3rd printer - my first one I made from scratch. It took about 2 weeks to get it assembled and another two weeks to get it to print properly. Most of that time was spent modifying the Martin software so it would run my machine! My second one was an Ender V1. It took me about 90 minutes to assemble and about 30 minutes to get it to work. Over the years - I modified it to the point it was virtually impossible to tell the difference between it and a V3. I replaced it because a least one of the motors was going bad and I did not want to do the repairs. I picked this printer for 3 reasons 1) it was on sale, 2) I am now wheelchair bound and needed a printer that did not require too much assembly, and 3) I had worked with Ender before and knew how they worked. I was able to keep some of the old parts from the old machine (but threw most away). Everything was packaged well, but the small parts are in plastic bags that you have to tear or cut open - so be careful you do not lose any parts! There are only three parts to be assembled. They are the base, the frame, and the screen. I had no trouble getting the machine together - did have some trouble getting it to work. I was never able to reach customer service which ranged between "Who are you Kidding?" and "Did you really expect any?" I did some internet searching (there is lots of stuff out there - many are good YouTube videos). I found I needed to do an update - it got a bit complicated here. Part of the update was done using the hidden slot on the LEFT side of the removable screen and part was done using a SD card on the LEFT side of the Unit. (Ender does NOT tell you this on their website!). I was already angry when I tried their slicer and it did NOT work - after not being able to get customer service again. I deleted their slicer and used my Cura. After doing a few prints using Cura (which works fine) a couple days later, I reinstalled their slicer and did some troubleshooting - I found I had a setting wrong. I use both Cura and their slicer now because of the differences. Each one has some features the other one lacks. One example: The Cura has a large number of preset configurations, and it is easy to save a custom configuration. The Creality titles the g-code with a filename that includes the estimate print time. I tried customer service and actually someone! They did give me the manual settings for generic Pla - when I asked how to save those settings they send me to a useless link. I will research how to save one day - but will use my Cura for generic pla until then. What I like about the machine. 1} While it is nosier (a trade-off for higher speed) - it is still much quieter than the original Ender I had before modifications. 2)The new ribbon and print head are a big improvement. The filament is easier to change, and you can easily make prints with different colors! I do not miss the bowden tube and individual wires at all! 3) I like to put my prints on a card. The old machine used a micro-SD card - and I quicky bought an adapter! The new machine takes regular SD cards and no adapter is needed! 4) I really like the automatic leveling feature. There have been times I have spent hours getting my manual table set the way I wanted. So far - it has worked great. I have only made about 50 prints - so I cannot tell you how reliable it is in long term use. 5) The quality of prints is much better than my old machine. I am not sure whether this due to being a better machine or the stepper motor needing replacement. What I do not like: 1) The SD card has to be put into its slot upside down. 2) The controls and the SD card slot are all on the left side of the printer. I think putting the computer connection and the SD card would have been much better on the front of the machine. 3) Updating is like putting up a Christmas tree. The firmware is done with a hidden C connector on the left side of the detachable screen (this is like putting up a Christmas tree). Fine details on display etc. are put in using the SD card (this is like putting the lights on the tree). Once you figure out what goes where - it is the easiest printer to update I have had. 4. This one is a mixed bag. I do not give their customer service good marks - but the fact I found solutions on the internet was a good thing.
        WAS THIS REVIEW HELPFUL?YesReportShare
        Reviewed in the United States on April 5, 2026
        S
        Verified Purchase
        Sid Hubbs
        Fort Morgan, US
        ★★★★★ 5
        The K2 SE is a great entry level printer. Don't let the naysayers get you down!
        Set name: K2 SE
        I bought the K2 SE because it was inexpensive and I wanted to get into 3D printing. I had a Creality laser engraver that worked well, so I figured I'd go with the brand I knew. I bought the additional enclosure because I was planning to use this in the garage where my wood shop is, and I wanted to keep some dust out. I have been pushing this thing pretty hard for three months now and it has not so much as looked at me cross eyed. It takes everything I throw at it. The quality seems to be there, as nothing is wearing out. I have a little superlube oil and grease to keep up the maintenance, and I suspect any failures people report have been on unmaintained machines. If you're the type that drives your car without changing the oil, 3D printing is not for you. A quick note on 3D printing, for the uninitiated. When you see the one and two star reviews for the K2 SE, make sure you read why the reviewer is leaving the low rating. "Doesn't come with filament" - if you're not buying a combo with filament, none of the printers on the market come with filament. "Makes bubbles and pops when printing" - this is wet filament and not the fault of the printer (dry your filament). 3D printing is not a set it and forget it proposition, at least not at first. It requires a little skill (that can be built), a little knowledge (the U of Tube), and a little patience while you learn how to use the machine. Now for the machine itself... The print quality surprised me as a first time 3D printer user. I have purchased 3D printed items in the past and the lines were not something that impressed me. The K2 SE prints pretty much the same quality as the higher end Bambu Labs printers. The speed is all I could ask for, and I have fed this thing all kinds of PLA, PETG and TPU from Creality, Sunlu, Polymaker and AnyCubic without a problem. Any issues I have had have been the fault of the operator (me) not knowing I had to dry PETG before I use it. I have a Creality filament dryer now and dry my PETG right out of the package, then store it in an airtight container with dessicant. I have two printers running dried PETG sitting behind me right now and they're doing great. If I have a single complaint about the K2 SE, it's the bed size. At 215 x 220 it's smaller than the industry "standard" of 256 x 256, and if you get some of the larger prints that are designed for a "standard" sized printer, they won't fit the build plate. But I knew that coming into this, because they advertise the size right up front. Overall, I'm happy with the K2 SE. It was an excellent entry level printer and I have learned a lot from using it. I may even buy a second to add to my growing farm.
        WAS THIS REVIEW HELPFUL?YesReportShare
        Reviewed in the United States on May 20, 2026
        R
        Verified Purchase
        ReluctantConsumer
        Alexandria, US
        ★★★★★ 5
        Creality K1 SE - Prints great with stock settings - needs a side spool mount
        Set name: K2 SE, Set name: K2 SE
        I bought the Creality K1 SE a little over a week ago. I had an Ender 3 S1 before this printer. The K1 SE is so, so much easier to print with right out of the box! I definitely recommend it. It's a good way to get the improvements that were built into Creality's K1C, but at a nicer price. Plus, you can install your own version of Klipper if you want. I've printed 10 or so things in PLA and PETG, and I haven't had any failed prints. The automatic bed leveling has just worked. I have not had any problems with bed adhesion. On the Ender 3 S1, I only used a textured PEI plate, but the smooth build plate on the K1 SE works fine. The extruder cooling fan also seems ok for what I've printed so far. I printed an overhang test and the 75 degree overhang looks fine, but it had trouble at 80 degrees. The bridging test looked ok. (The longest bridge was only 25 mm on that test however.) I've put the printer in a soft-sided enclosure that I had used for my old Ender 3 S1. (It's easy to find similar encolsures.) The LEDs on the K1 SE are bright enough to see inside which is something that I was concerned about before I purchased. However, this enclosure makes it difficult to access the back of the printer where the filament spool is mounted, so I designed a mount that clamps onto the side-bar - see the pictures. The files are on Printables - "Creality K1 SE Side Spool Mount".
        WAS THIS REVIEW HELPFUL?YesReportShare
        Reviewed in the United States on January 21, 2025
        G
        Verified Purchase
        Geoff
        Omaha, US
        ★★★★★ 3
        Almost Good
        Set name: K2 SE
        The nozzle cleaning is completely ineffective. The wiper pushes material up the sides of the nozzle and melts onto the nozzle. The result is the nozzle leaves burnt debris on the prints. The calibration before each print only probes 5 points on the bed and the results are not satisfactory, with the nozzle being variously too close or too far from the bed. To adjust the z offset you have to go through several menus and the machine seems to not remember where you set it last time. Print quality is good except for VFAs. Part cooling fan is very loud at full speed.
        WAS THIS REVIEW HELPFUL?YesReportShare
        Reviewed in the United States on February 5, 2026

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