SKU: 80484444874

Cubaris sp. 'Black Diamond' Isopods for Sale

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Description

Cubaris sp. 'Black Diamond' Isopods for SaleCubaris sp. 'Black Diamond' is one of the more unusual premium Cubaris in the UK hobby a properly distinctive Southeast Asian species marked out by its dark grey to purplish body with contrasting white or pale yellow tail segments. The colouration is unusual for the genus, which mostly trades in warm browns, oranges and pastels, and the cool tone aesthetic gives 'Black Diamond' a genuinely different visual presence in a collection. Combined with the

Cubaris sp. 'Black Diamond' is one of the more unusual premium Cubaris in the UK hobby — a properly distinctive Southeast Asian species marked out by its dark grey-to-purplish body with contrasting white or pale yellow tail segments. The colouration is unusual for the genus, which mostly trades in warm browns, oranges and pastels, and the cool-tone aesthetic gives 'Black Diamond' a genuinely different visual presence in a collection. Combined with the larger-than-average Cubaris body size at around 14 mm, this is a substantial display species as well as a rare one.

This is part of our wider Cubaris collection. It pairs well in a focused premium collection with the contrasting visuals of Rubber Ducky, Red Edge, and Lemon Blue — where 'Black Diamond' provides the cool, dark counterpoint to the warmer-toned premium morphs.

One critical framing point up front. 'Black Diamond' is a properly cool-preferring Cubaris — meaningfully different from the warm-tropical husbandry most of the genus requires. Cave-dwelling stock from cool limestone environments performs best at standard UK room temperatures, and warmer conditions are documented to cause significant stress and elevated mortality. This is an important distinction for keepers used to the typical "warm and humid Cubaris" care template. For a complete setup, browse our accessories collection for the leaf litter, calcium sources, sphagnum moss and protein supplements you'll need.

Quick Care Summary

  • Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. 'Black Diamond' (also traded as 'Diamond Black', 'Quartz', occasionally 'Diamond Tiger')
  • Family: Armadillidae
  • Origin: Thailand and surrounding Southeast Asian region — cool limestone cave systems with silt floors and rocky walls
  • Adult Size: Approximately 14 mm — larger than many Cubaris
  • Lifespan: 2–3 years typical
  • Difficulty: Medium — moderate care, with the specific quirk that cooler temperatures are required
  • Temperature: 15–24 °C (cool-preferring) — UK room temperature is ideal; warmer conditions are documented to cause stress and rapid mortality
  • Humidity: 70–80% with a clear moisture gradient
  • Ventilation: Moderate — balance airflow with humidity retention
  • Conglobation: Yes — rolls into a tight protective ball when disturbed, classic Cubaris behaviour
  • Appearance: Dark grey to purplish body with contrasting white or pale yellow tail segments; rounded Cubaris body shape; classic 'duck face' head profile
  • Behaviour: Shy and reclusive; observed in small groups of 5–10 in the wild; tend to stay hidden under cover during the day; nocturnal foragers
  • Breeding: Moderate — typical Cubaris pace, not prolific, requires stable cool conditions
  • Rarity: Very Rare in the UK hobby

What Makes 'Black Diamond' Special

The cool-toned aesthetic. Most premium Cubaris work with warm colour palettes — yellows, oranges, browns, reds, pastels. 'Black Diamond' goes the other way entirely. The dark grey body with hints of purple, set against pale yellow-to-white tail segments, gives the species a distinctly mineral, gemstone-like quality that justifies the trade name. It's one of the few Cubaris that genuinely earns the "diamond" branding rather than just borrowing the marketing term.

The cool-temperature preference is the key husbandry feature. Where the rest of the Cubaris genus needs supplementary warmth in UK homes, 'Black Diamond' performs best at standard UK room temperature — typically 18–22 °C in a heated home. This is genuinely unusual for a Thai Cubaris and reflects the species's native habitat in cooler cave systems rather than the warmer karst forest floors most of the genus occupies. For UK keepers who don't want the heat-mat-and-thermostat overhead of typical premium Cubaris, this is a real practical advantage.

The larger body size. At around 14 mm at maturity, 'Black Diamond' is meaningfully bigger than many of the smaller premium Cubaris (which often top out at 10–12 mm). The combination of substantial size and bold cool-tone colouration makes individual animals genuinely observable rather than the tiny gemstone-scale animals some Cubaris become.

The cave-floor heritage. Wild populations have been observed in small groups traversing moist cave floors and rocky walls in their native Southeast Asian limestone habitats. This translates to specific husbandry preferences in captivity — they appreciate flat hides at substrate level, calcium-rich limestone environments, and the moisture-without-warmth combination characteristic of cool cave systems.

The premium Cubaris cluster. 'Black Diamond' slots into a focused premium Cubaris collection as the cool-tone counterpoint to the warmer Rubber Ducky, Red Edge and Lemon Blue. The genuinely unusual colour palette and the cooler temperature requirement together make it stand out from the rest of the premium catalogue rather than blending in.

About the Name

A brief clarification on the morph's various names.

  • Cubaris sp. 'Black Diamond': The most common UK trade name.
  • Cubaris sp. 'Diamond Black': Used interchangeably with 'Black Diamond' — same animal, word order varies between sources.
  • Cubaris sp. 'Quartz': An alternative trade name used by some international breeders, referencing the mineral aesthetic.
  • Cubaris sp. 'Diamond Tiger': Occasionally used in older hobby sources; modern usage has generally consolidated around 'Black Diamond' or 'Diamond Black'.
  • Taxonomically undescribed: Like most premium trade-named Cubaris from Thailand, 'Black Diamond' has not been formally described in the scientific literature. It is one of the various Cubaris sp. forms circulating internationally under hobby designations rather than formal binomials.

Setting Up the Enclosure

A 6–10 litre plastic container with a secure clip-lock lid suits a starter colony of 5–10 individuals. Drill ventilation holes on opposite sides for proper cross-flow, covered with fine mesh. Like other Cubaris, 'Black Diamond' needs moderate ventilation — enough airflow to prevent stagnation and mould, without compromising humidity retention. Get this balance right and the colony establishes well; stagnant air is one of the more common reasons Cubaris cultures fail.

Provide multiple flat hides distributed across the moisture gradient. Wild 'Black Diamond' are observed traversing cave floors rather than burrowing, so flat horizontal cork bark, lotus pods and limestone slabs work better than vertical features. Browse our accessories range for cork bark, lotus pods, and other natural hide options. Keep the enclosure out of direct sunlight and well away from any heat sources — the species is documented to suffer in warmer conditions.

Important husbandry note: Skip the standing water dish. Misting and a moist sphagnum corner provide all the moisture this species needs, and open water risks drowning smaller individuals while encouraging mould in the humid setup. A wet sphagnum patch on the moist side is more than enough.

Substrate

Use a moisture-retentive, calcium-rich substrate appropriate to the limestone-cave heritage:

  • Organic topsoil (pesticide-free) as the foundation
  • Sphagnum moss for the moist section and overall moisture retention — available in our accessories range
  • Composted hardwood leaf litter mixed throughout — properly prepared options are available in our accessories collection
  • Crushed limestone or oyster shell distributed liberally throughout — 'Black Diamond' evolved in calcium-rich karst environments and respond strongly to limestone
  • White rotten hardwood pieces — a particularly important food source for Cubaris
  • A thin layer of fine silt or fine substrate near the surface in places to mimic the cave-floor habitat

We recommend a topsoil and sphagnum-based mix rather than coco coir. Substrate depth around 6–10 cm gives the colony room to settle and supports moisture-gradient stability.

Top layer: a generous covering of hardwood leaf litter — oak, beech, magnolia — plus flat cork bark pieces and lotus pods for cover. Limestone slabs in particular replicate the native habitat well and provide passive calcium availability.

Humidity and Temperature

Temperature is the critical parameter for this species. Maintain 15–24 °C, which matches standard UK room temperature for most of the year. Warmer conditions (above 25 °C sustained) are specifically documented to cause stress and elevated mortality in 'Black Diamond' — this is unusual for a Thai Cubaris but well-established for this particular species. The implication is that 'Black Diamond' should not be kept in heated reptile rooms, near radiators, or with the supplementary heat mats commonly used for other premium Cubaris. In most UK homes the ambient temperature is already ideal year-round; in particularly warm summer conditions, placement in a cooler part of the house may be necessary.

Maintain humidity around 70–80% with a clear moisture gradient — keep roughly one third of the enclosure consistently damp using sphagnum moss, while the remainder stays slightly drier with leaf litter coverage. The substrate should feel damp like a wrung-out sponge, never waterlogged. Cubaris in general need a clear humidity gradient rather than uniform wetness; this species is no different.

Diet

'Black Diamond' are typical Cubaris detritivores, with a documented preference for certain supplementary foods:

  • White rotten hardwood pieces — the single most important food source, always available
  • Hardwood leaf litter (oak, beech, magnolia) — the dietary foundation, always available. Browse our accessories collection for properly prepared options.
  • Mango and carrots — particularly well-received by this species; keeper experience consistently flags these as favourite supplementary foods
  • Other vegetables 1–2x weekly: courgette, sweet potato, squash. Replace within 24–48 hours.
  • Fruit occasionally in small amounts (apple, melon, alongside the favoured mango)
  • Protein 1–2x weekly: fish flakes, dried shrimp, dried daphnia. Cubaris are moderately protein-driven and benefit from regular supplementation — our accessories range covers the full protein selection.
  • Calcium (essential — always available): cuttlefish bone, crushed limestone, oyster shell, eggshell. Limestone is particularly appropriate given the karst-cave heritage; our calcium options cover the full range.

Don't overfeed — excess fresh food spoils quickly in humid conditions and damages air quality. White rotten wood does most of the dietary work; fresh foods are supplemental rather than staple.

Breeding

'Black Diamond' breed at a moderate Cubaris pace — slower than the prolific Porcellio species but reliable once a colony establishes itself under stable conditions. Females carry developing young in a brood pouch (marsupium) and release fully-formed miniature versions of the adults, which inherit the cool-tone body colouration and pale tail markings from birth.

For breeding success:

  • Stable temperature in the cool comfort range (18–22 °C tends to support best breeding rates) — don't push warmer to encourage breeding, as this is counterproductive for this species
  • Consistent humidity gradient — avoid wet swings or stuffy conditions
  • Deep substrate (6–10 cm) for stability and microclimate buffering
  • Abundant calcium for breeding females — multiple distributed sources work better than a single piece of cuttlebone
  • Regular protein supplementation to support reproductive output
  • Plenty of flat hides — cork bark and lotus pods placed flat on the substrate work particularly well for this cave-floor species
  • Minimal disturbance — Cubaris breed best when left alone; frequent enclosure checks slow things down
  • Patience — initial colony establishment can take several months before breeding picks up reliably

Because 'Black Diamond' is undescribed and uncommon, documented breeding characteristics for this specific morph remain modestly detailed. Following the cool-end Cubaris husbandry protocol gives the best results.

Who Should Buy 'Black Diamond' Isopods?

Ideal for:

  • Experienced isopod keepers ready to add a genuinely unusual premium Cubaris to their collection
  • UK keepers who don't want the heat-mat-and-thermostat overhead of typical premium Cubaris — 'Black Diamond' is one of the rare Cubaris that thrives at room temperature
  • Display enthusiasts drawn to cool-tone aesthetics rather than warm-tone premium morphs
  • Collectors building a focused premium Cubaris cluster alongside Rubber Ducky, Red Edge or Lemon Blue — 'Black Diamond' provides genuine visual contrast
  • Keepers wanting a larger-bodied Cubaris that's actually observable in the enclosure

Not ideal for:

  • Complete beginners — start with Cubaris murina or other beginner species first
  • Keepers running heated bioactive reptile setups where ambient temperature exceeds 25 °C — 'Black Diamond' will struggle and likely fail in these conditions
  • Setups that run uniformly wet without a proper dry zone — Cubaris need the moisture gradient
  • Anyone wanting an active, visible species — like most Cubaris, 'Black Diamond' is reclusive
  • Keepers expecting fast colony expansion — Cubaris breed steadily, not prolifically

Realistic Expectations

The temperature requirement runs counter to the typical Cubaris care template. Most online Cubaris care guides emphasise warm temperatures (22–27 °C) for the genus. 'Black Diamond' is a documented exception — it actively prefers cooler conditions and suffers in warmth. If you've already set up a warm reptile-style enclosure for premium Cubaris, this species needs a different approach. Standard UK room temperature is your friend here.

They're shy and primarily nocturnal. Like most Cubaris, 'Black Diamond' spends much of the daytime hidden under cork bark, lotus pods and leaf litter. Don't expect them to be active surface foragers — observation usually means lifting a hide rather than watching the colony go about its business in the open.

The colouration is cool and subtle, not vivid. The appeal here is the mineral, gemstone-like quality of the dark body and pale tail rather than bright pigmentation. Under bright lighting the purple tones in the body become more visible; in normal viewing the overall impression is dark grey with contrasting paler tail segments. Photos online vary considerably depending on lighting conditions.

Breeding is steady, not prolific. Plan for patient colony establishment over months rather than weeks. Premium Cubaris in general are slower to settle into a productive breeding rhythm than the easier species, and 'Black Diamond' is no exception.

Published care data is limited. 'Black Diamond' is uncommon enough that you'll find relatively little detailed husbandry information specific to this species. The temperature point above is the most consistently flagged across hobby sources; beyond that, follow standard cool-end Cubaris husbandry protocols.

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As someone who has spent nearly two decades deep within the intricate world of C# software development, delving into game development was like stepping into a new dimension, filled with its unique set of challenges and learning curves. It’s an entirely different ball game, albeit an exciting one. My preference for Unity, primarily because of its compatibility with C#, brought me to Scott Tykoshi’s "Mastering Game Design with Unity 2021," and what an enlightening journey it has been! Bridging the Knowledge Gap: The book acts as a bridge between my extensive experience in software engineering and the nuances of game development. Scott has a talent for making complex concepts accessible, and the depth of knowledge shared in this book is invaluable for anyone willing to expand their horizons within the game development ecosystem. Comprehensive and Well-Structured: This book isn’t just a guide; it’s a comprehensive repository of information. It meticulously covers a myriad of topics such as immersive workflows, visual scripting, physics engine, GameObjects, player progression, and publishing. The structured approach helps in assimilating each concept thoroughly before moving on to the next, allowing for a gradual and solid build-up of knowledge. Enlightening Insights into Unity: Being a C# aficionado, Unity was my platform of choice, and this book has only deepened my appreciation for it. It's enlightening to see the seamless integration and the versatility that Unity offers, especially through Scott’s detailed and clear explanations. The practical insights and the in-depth exploration of Unity’s capabilities have empowered me to leverage the platform to its fullest potential. Practical Approach to Learning: Scott Tykoshi’s method of blending theory with practical examples is a boon for learners. The real-world applications and practical exercises resonate well with my learning style, providing a hands-on experience that is crucial for mastering game design. The examples are well-thought-out, relevant, and inject a dose of reality into the theoretical aspects, making the learning process engaging and effective. From Novice to Master: "Mastering Game Design with Unity 2021" lives up to its name, taking the reader on a journey from the basics to the advanced intricacies of game design. Whether it’s understanding the nuances of player progression or getting to grips with visual scripting, the book lays out a clear path for achieving mastery in game design. Conclusion: For seasoned software engineers like myself, making the transition into game development can seem daunting, but "Mastering Game Design with Unity 2021" by Scott Tykoshi has been a beacon of knowledge, guiding me through uncharted territories with ease and clarity. It’s more than just a book; it’s a mentor, a guide, and a companion in the thrilling journey of game development. If Unity and game design are on your radar, consider this book your roadmap to mastery. Whether you’re just dipping your toes in or ready to dive deep, Scott’s insights will illuminate your path and elevate your game design skills to new heights.
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Mastering Game Design with Unity is a must-have for any developer looking to use Unity as their platform for developing a video game for today's audience. What makes this book particularly compelling is that it goes through the entire game design and development process. From UI design to audio to graphics, this is a book that provides a one-stop shop of knowledge for developers. If you're already a developer or just looking for a book at act as the heart of your Unity development, this is the book to get.
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Content seems good, but support files/code are insufficient, and the code seems illogical in places
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This books starts out great and the content/approach seems solid. But I ran into several issues when the coding portions were introduced, notably when it came to collisions and destroying enemy game objects. There's scripting to set up a bullet behavior, but from the outset the behavior is buggy, and when the "explosion" behavior is introduced, there's no coding to actually destroy the object you're introducing the explosion behavior to. On top of that, the explosion behavior is tied to the playerObj's "onDeath" function, so ... I'm not sure how any of that ties into destroying an enemy game object. This is about 150 pages in. The go-to method in these cases is, of course, to reference the support files, but these files only include the code and the book images. What's really needed is the Unity project files to ensure the code is being implemented in the components of the game objects and seeing the core structure there. With only the scripts, you can only check your scripts against those, but you can't be sure you're utilizing them correctly and tying it all together in Unity. Granted, I'm still learning the platform, but things like where you're expected to fire a bullet that has no "destroy gameObject" function into an enemy gameObject that also has no such behavior ... and the behavior is tied to the player? There's definitely something amiss. All the while you're dealing with "soft locks" in the test gameplay that could have been immediately addressed, but aren't. And you can't really move forward with such core inconsistencies in place because you fear the problems would just compound from there.
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