SKU: 93469614834

Sugino Mighty (MW-68) Vintage English 114 mm Bottom Bracket

Sale price$88.20 Regular price$98.00
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Description

Sugino Mighty (MW-68) Vintage English 114 mm Bottom BracketOriginal part produced in the 1980s Lightweight for the era just 271 grams Suitable for historic cycling events such as L'Eroica Professionally checked & cleaned Worldwide shipping Sugino Mighty bottom bracket, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1980s. Made from aluminium steel and weighing in at 271 grams pretty lightweight for a bottom bracket at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any

✓ Original part - produced in the 1980s
✓ Lightweight for the era - just 271 grams
✓ Suitable for historic cycling events such as L'Eroica
✓ Professionally checked & cleaned
✓ Worldwide shipping

Sugino Mighty bottom bracket, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1980s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 271 grams - pretty lightweight for a bottom bracket at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.

If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bottom bracket!

The bottom bracket's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as mint condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.

OVERVIEW


Bearing / Race Condition - Mint
Model ID - MW-68
Production Era - 1980s
Country - Japanese
Material - Aluminium / Steel
Weight - 271 g
Stock Code - U-BB163V

TECHNICAL INFO


Thread Type - English Thread (British/ISO 1.37" x 24 TPI)
Axle Length - 114 mm
Axle Type - Square Taper

SHIPPING, TAXES & RETURNS

We've been safely sending orders around the world since 2010. There's a handy shipping calculator on the shopping cart page so you can see the cost of postage as soon as you've added it to your basket. Your order will be carefully packed and sent with tracking & insurance, we despatch most orders within 2-3 days but larger items and orders placed before the weekend can take an extra day or two to process.

We accept returns, please notify us within 14 days and ensure the item arrives back with us no later than 30 days after the order was received.

EU Customers – for orders under €150 (excluding shipping), VAT will be collected at checkout, but from 1st July 2026, due to new EU import regulations, there may also be a customs duty payable to the carrier. For orders over €150, all import fees will be payable to the carrier, with nothing collected at checkout.

USA Customers – import fees are now collected at checkout for all orders to the US, so there won’t be any surprise charges when your order arrives.

Other International Customers – local import fees may still apply, charged by your customs office or courier before delivery. These are not collected by us, so please check your local rates before purchasing.

Any applicable fees will appear at checkout.

HELP SECTION

Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.

Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.

Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. For square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.


Shipping Notes
  • Free Standard Shipping on $100+ Orders to the USA.
  • Except Preorder products are shipped in 48 hours.
  • Delivery to the USA:
  1. Standard Shipping : 3-10 business days
  • If time is of the essence, please consider selecting expedited delivery for faster service.
Exchange/Return Notes
  • We offer a 30-day return/exchange service after receiving.
  • Final sale items are not eligible for returns or exchanges.
  • To process your return/exchange, please contact us at [email protected]
  • Please click here for more details>>> Return & Exchange Policy
SKU: 93469614834

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4.2 ★★★★★
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JBDoge
Lake Worth, US
★★★★★ 5
Wish they came with instructions...
They are cheap and work great. They plug right into my Pioneer vsx521 receiver and my Paradigm Atom monitor speakers. I wish they came with instructions, because it took me about 10 minutes to realize the bottom part unscrews in addition to the top part. Here are my instructions for installation: 1) Unscrew the bottom part of this connector (the thin metal underneath the red/black ring). 2) Make sure the Banana Plug (which may be loosely screwed into the top part of the connector) is fully tightened down 3) Strip your wire tips to 3/8 of an inch (or just slightly under) 4) Run the first newly stripped wire end through the bottom part you removed in step 1, such that the stripped end of the wire is entering through the flat end and exiting through the smaller threaded end. 5) Leave about 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch of stripped wire hanging past the exit hole. 6) As evenly spaced as possible, bend the over-hanging wire strands over the exit hole (all around it, like a hat). If done properly, the wire should not fall out if you give it a VERY GENTLE tug. 7) Screw the top metal part (with the actual banana plug) back onto the bottom part. It may be difficult if your stripped wire is hanging too low. I've used a pair of pliers to grip the bottom part of the connector while I twist the banana plug side with my hand. If done correctly, you should be able to put a lot of tension between the wire and connector without removing/damaging it. UPDATE: I just recently helped my dad install his 5.1 system without these... it sucked... This item (5 pairs of them in this case) and a good wire stripper can save you alot of pain (both physical and mental). The connectors on the back of his receiver are the kind where bare wire comes in from the side and then the connectors screw down (with a banana plug hole in the center which is where this product would come into play). I felt like a surgeon trying to get a bare wire end into the little slot, and then holding it there while I tighten the connector which is almost impossible since they are so close together... GET THESE!
WAS THIS REVIEW HELPFUL?YesReportShare
Reviewed in the United States on February 8, 2012
R
Verified Purchase
R. Jackson
Belleville, US
★★★★★ 1
'Monoprice' = Worst stereo banana plugs on T-H-E market.
Size: 5 Pack, Pattern Name: Banana Plugs
The absolute WORST in stereo banana plugs - HANDS DOWN. After installing stereos and components for over 30 years, I'd say I'm experienced. These banana plugs fail at EVERY part of the design. Allow me to explain... 1) Starting with the tips, they are loose off the bat and fit LOOSELY in either the stereo input studs or speaker input studs by their 'girth'. They do not firmly seat in any plug and for this setup, I'm using a nearly $2K setup all together. They 'rock' back and forth (when inserted) and thus create a non-permanent connection, again, seriously making these utter junk. I've seen some items you can get by with over the years, but these aren't even rock bottom. They are unusable! 2) Next, the banana plugs themselves comes as three pieces. No non loosening o-ring seal but a plastic colored want-to-be imitation for positive and negative notation. Why do these stupid things come in three pieces? - I simply can't tell you why. I do know they serve no specific piece to solving the puzzle of installation so why do they come in three pieces...? My speculation is they are cheap china knockoffs. 3) The 'way' in which you normally install the trimmed wiring internally with the 'two-piece' design permits you to firmly CRIMP and hold the unsheathed wiring; but these do not. The overlap/overlay of the exposed wiring can only be about 2/16's of an inch thus not much to create a proper connection with. This single fact eliminates these plugs as even worthwhile component add ons; period. If you can't achieve a good ground/wiring connection, these are a defeated purpose... 4) Because of the design of these, they have no room to crimp and screw on the cable so your forced to nearly break your fingers in an attempt to get the unsheathed wire to overlay the internal threading and twist them on with all your might. This in effect breaks nearly every wire thread internally and then they breaks off inside. Absolute garbage. These are total pieces of non-quality junk that did nothing but makes me waste 30 minutes on attempting to get them securely on and another 25 to locate my Amazon account, find this product in my order and ALARM anyone else from making the same mistake I made. Now, I find out I can't even get a return on these. Thanks Amazon. Thank you third party retailer. You just made me a very dissatisfied decade long customer.
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Reviewed in the United States on August 17, 2016
A
Verified Purchase
Amazon Customer
Battle Creek, US
★★★★★ 5
Nice quality
Had to return due to our mistake but the mechanic said it was good quality. Ordered the correct size and worked great.
WAS THIS REVIEW HELPFUL?YesReportShare
Reviewed in the United States on March 30, 2025
K
Verified Purchase
katelyn traut
Lake Worth, US
★★★★★ 5
Perfect fit
Worked great for a 1965 mercury thunderbolt 150hp
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Reviewed in the United States on June 3, 2025
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Lawrence Brown
Cuba, US
★★★★★ 5
MerCruiser Replacement Parts
OEM quality MerCruiser Alpha 1 Gen1 replacement part. Everything you need and some things you don't because it's a universal kit that works for several models.
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